Upgrade Plans

As you can read in our first trip we installed a new Fuel filter with water separator. This due to the fact that we do not know what was/is in the fuel tank. It is always better to have a separate fuel filter with additional filters available.

We chose to use the R12T Brandstoffilter/Waterafscheider by Aliexpress. Together with the 2 new filters for €16,- this was just a winner. But next time, we might order 4 filters for €14,-. Especially since there's also a fuel filter on the engine itself, a top-quality filter isn't really necessary. Although I do wonder whether these (cheap) filters are really that bad (10-micron filtration). The filters are also available elsewhere for about €45 each! (Seen at places like Bootmania, for example). In short, they are not filters that don't work. On the advice of a mechanic, we also installed a fuel primer bulb. This really helps with refilling the filters without making a serious mess with fuel.

The advantage of using this "hack" is that when you change the R12T filter, you don't have to fill it up with diesel before you are putting it back. The pumpin ball just makes it easy. Open the air bleeder on the filter, and start pumping. It is as easy as that!

Now we have a nice spot in the harbor, we can start to work on the electrical installation... Whow.... That is some "adventure". We already knew that there was enough to change and modify, but this much? We are actually cutting away approx 25 years of "previous owners installation wonder". When taking out old cables, we found:

• VMVK cable (normally for 220v) in between the shore-power charger and the battery.
• A water hose of about 3 meters, not connected to anything on BOTH sides.
• Half dissolved twin wire cables
• 220v Electrical cables used for 12v

So yes, surprises, surprises. It looks like there has been done a lot with this boat in years, because the silent witnesses are still there. Switches and (power) plugs, cables leading to nowhere, holes, etc. We also found out that the original regulator/solenoid was already replaced by a separate regulator and (Start) Solenoid. At first this confused me a bit, due to the fact that there were more wires connected to the solenoid, and I did not know where they were for, and coming from. But I figured that out! The solenoid was just "hanging" free but is now firmly attached.

Solenoid

The Solenoid has 4 connectors:

• 2 x 8mm — For the main power-cables
• 2 x 6mm — 1 for the ground, 1 for the starter button positive feed

Main powercables - +/- (25mm²)

First parts that are replaced are the Main Powercables:

• From the dynastart (11Ah) to the Solenoid ➕
• From the Solenoid to the Main switch ➕
• From the Main switch to the (start) battery (80Ah) ➕
• From the (start) battery (80Ah) to the engine (Black wire) ➖

Regulator

We have not changed all the wires attached to the Regulator. The only cable that we replaced was the B+ connector between the ➕ and the regulator. Using the color schema as mentioned in the AB Marineservice documentation this cable is now a red cable.

Wire Logic

Regulator	Dynastart	Battery	Solenoid
B+ = RED DF = GREEN D+ = YELLOW D- = BLACK (Mass -) 61 = BLUE	B+ = RED DF = GREEN D+ = YELLOW D- = BLACK 61 = BLUE 30 = RED	+ = RED - = BLACK	+ = RED (left on drawing) - = BLACK (Mass -) + = RED (right on drawing) 50 = Starter Button

The Regulator:

Hmmmm... After checking some stuff, the Dynastart does not charge at all. And I noticed that the wires were not connected properly according to what was on the Dynastart and Regulator.

• The D+ on the Dyna, was connected to the DF on the regulator
• The DF on the Dyna, was connected to the D+ on the regulator

So, I "reconnected" everything properly and guess what? My D+ wire starts to melt!
That is no bueno! as how Farmcraft 101's John would call it.
Time to call around for another dynastart & regulator. I refuse to spend too much time figuring out what is the issue. I will just replace it all together.....

Ok, after talking with Shanaz, we decided to just "look around" to see if re-fitting a different engine would be something. Preferably a BUKH DV24 or DV29. Found a BUKH shop near home!
So we went there and had a very good talk and we decided that we are going to refit a BUKH DV24. The fact that it comes with a 55A alternator, makes a lot of additional costs for the MD2B obsolete. Therefore no additional brackets, no extra aux-alternator. Just a new engine. And this engine gives more "readouts" too. Possibilities for:

• Water Temperature
• Oil Pressure
• Oil Temperature

And it will be a refurbished one with approx. 500 hours. Not a new one. But with BUKH, this is actually "new"......

The Dynastart replacement

Due to the fact that it takes a bit of time to get the BUKH DV24, we ordered a new dynastart.
We ordered one from AB Marine Service so we have a working engine in the mean time.
The new dynastart is a replacement, but is a little less strong.

Dynastart Project: 50%

Dynastart

Ordered and shipped Dynastart

Date: 1 Juni 2025

From

AB Marineservice

To

Enkhuizen

Product

Dynastart

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Dynastart Summary

Type

DC Dynamo

Voltage

⎓ 12 volt

Ampere

11

kW

0.9

HP

1.2

Mounting the Dynastart replacement

Yep, took some time, but it is installed. The dynastart we ordered from AB Marine Service is mounted. It took some work to properly place it:

• The mounting hole on the pulley side of the dynastarter measures 8 mm, while the hole in the bracket to which the dynastarter is attached measures 10 mm. Therefore, the bracket hole must be enlarged to ensure proper fitment.
• Assessment and Replacement of Fastening Components:
  Upon inspection, the original bolts and nuts were found to be excessively worn and no longer reliable for safe and secure operation. Due to significant degradation—likely caused by prolonged exposure to mechanical stress and possibly corrosion—they were deemed unfit for continued use and required replacement to restore structural integrity. As a solution, a high-quality stainless steel threaded rod (A2 grade), measuring 200 mm in length, was selected. This threaded rod provides improved corrosion resistance and mechanical strength compared to the original components. To ensure secure fastening and prevent loosening due to vibration or dynamic load, a standard hex nut and a corresponding locknut (counter nut) were installed at both ends of the rod. This configuration provides a robust and durable connection, well-suited for long-term use in marine or similarly demanding environments.
• Mounting the new power-regulator
• Rewiring the entire system

Upon earlier checks, the original dynastart did not charge. To be sure, implementing a brand new set (dynastart and regulator) seemed to be the smarter choice.

So, we can, at least, boat this season!

Evaluation of the Dynastart replacement

After a few trips now, the Dynastart works perfect. The effort put in to replace it, is paying off.

Upon earlier checks, the original dynastart did not charge. To be sure, implementing a brand new set (dynastart and regulator) seemed to be the smarter choice. The only thing that is irritating a bit is that a dynastart needs a specific amount of rpm's to work properly. So, when you are manouvering, this might be an issue.